Now that the flooring is finished in my spare room and the bedroom is set up, I need a ceiling fan put in to pull in the heat from the wood pellet stove which is at the other end of the house. We switch the direction of the fan blades from the setting in the summer, going clockwise and pushing air to counter clockwise and pulling air into the room and it will pull the heat down the hall and into the room.

I did not need anything fancy for this. There are a lot of different types of ceiling fans at a wide range of prices. I just needed a simple, small, close to the ceiling, fan with a light kit. If you like a fan to hang lower from the ceiling then you will need to purchase one with a downrod. My fan will be over a bed and I need it close to the ceiling. There is a site that has a lot of information on

Check the floor-to-ceiling height of the fan blades. You can do this by measuring the floor-to-ceiling distance and subtracting for the part of the fan that will extend below the ceiling down to the lower blade surface. An absolute minimum height of 7′ is recommended. Building codes in your area may reinforce this.

If the floor-to-ceiling distance is too little, check into a low-ceiling mount for your fan. With some models, the fan blade height can be increased by as much as 10″. Remember, though, that you need at least 12″ between the ceiling and the tops of the fan blades for proper airflow. Having 18″ is better if the space is available.

To start the installation The first thing you will need to do is shut off the source of electricity. Then it is best to take out all the parts and lay them out in a work area. Read the directions and get familiar with all the parts. One thing we had to check was the junction box and how secure it was. You want to make sure this is going to hold the weight of the fan and be secured to withstand the vibrations and circular movement of the fan. A secured junction box should be able to support a fan’s weight up to 35 pounds. If the fan weighs more, then you will need to add more support.

If it needs more support then you will need to secure it to a brace between ceiling joists. If there is no 2″ x 4″ wood brace between the joists but you have access to the framing through the attic, add a brace. Otherwise, install an expandable metal ceiling fan hanger bar. These may be positioned either from the attic or from below the ceiling, through the rough opening. Secure the box to the bracket with a U-bolt.

Remove the fan motor screws. These are the screws that will be used later to secure the blade arms to the motor. Remove the mounting bracket from the fan canopy and secure it to the junction box. If the fan comes with a J-hook, install the mounting bracket with the J-hook towards the floor. The hook will support the weight of the fan motor housing for a hands-free wiring installation.

Hang the motor housing from the J hook. Determine the hot and common wires by color: black is hot for the fan, blue is hot for the light kit, white is common for the fan and light kit, and green is ground. Pull the electrical wires through the center hole of the mounting bracket. There should be a white wire, black wire and a blue or copper wire. Thread the wires from the motor through the canopy. Take extra care not to pull on electrical wires.

Make the appropriate wire connections. After the connections are made and the wires are carefully tucked into the outlet box, remove the canopy from the J-hook on the mounting plate.

Remember to cap the wires and tape all connections. Attach the canopy to the mounting plate with the provided screws.

Mount each blade bracket to a fan blade using the screws and washers supplied making sure all screws are tight. Finish mounting your light kit. I am sure that there is something you can add to these instructions. Please leave a comment and let me know if they were helpful.

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